L: first ham experience;
R Top-Bottom: the seafood appetizer that cost me arm and leg😂; the limosine ride from airport to the hotel; my accommodation while in Istanbul- the window has the view of Hagia Sophia.
I am a history buff. I always been fascinated of the countries of the old world when I was in high school; I was particularly curious about Byzantine era. I remember reading about the vibrant city of Constantinople the gateway for trades between Asia and Europe. But this time is different- I wasn’t just reading about it. I am in actual immersion with it- an adult field trip in the modern Constantinople- now Istanbul; for real.
I arrived in Istanbul airport at around 230PM from a smooth flight from Keyseri. I was received and escorted to my ride to old Istanbul- the European side of the capital. And just like in Cappadocia, I was surprised that it wasn’t an ordinary ride- it was a limousine- again all by myself. That brought a smile to my face; my travel agent really knows how to pamper their clients like myself.😉
After I have checked in to Armada hotel I went down to the lobby and waited for my ride as I have a scheduled Hammam session. Hammam is a traditional Turkish bath- a Middle Eastern way of relaxation which include steam room, exfoliation, foam massage and cooling down with refreshment. It was an hour and a half session. I have not experienced it, and I thought where else is the best way to do it but here. I came with no expectations- and glad I didn’t have high ones😂. Personally, I thought I would enjoy it like any other massages I had, but I have mixed feelings with this one- I guess because the marble slab (where I was laying down) was cold, and just laying down there wet the entire time as I was constantly being soaped, massaged and rinsed- made me uneasy and tensed and left me shivering. The only consolation was the hot sherbet I got after.
When I arrived to the hotel I was hungry, tired and hesitant to explore the town so I resorted to a nearby seafood restaurant close to my hotel. The place was nice and upscale; the appetizers were served like a dimsum; and I with all naivety, I took the bait and ordered not one.. not two.. but four seafood appetizers. Then I ordered some salad and my main course. A couple of the appetizers- the sea bass and the calamari were good; the salad was also good. But the rest were mediocre. The sticker shock came after I received my bill- it was LR7,500 or US$175. Clueless, I asked the waiter how come it was such an expensive dinner, only to be told that each appetizer has different price tags. I was lost in translation and looking like defeated so I paid and merrily went my way back to the hotel. I guess I just have to charge it to experience😉.
The view of sunrise across the Sea of Marmara overlooking the Asian part of Istanbul.
The following day I woke up earlier than usual. After I spoke with Bob on the phone I headed up to the roof top to enjoy a nice buffet breakfast complimentary of the hotel I was staying. I was pleased to see some views- of the Hagia Sofia Mosque on one side and the asian part of Istanbul across the other side of Sea of Marmara. While enjoying my breakfast, I was also enjoying the sight. Eventually, a couple of seagulls joined me too as they stood from my open window. What a perfect location I thought.
By 9AM I went down to the lobby to meet Zekiye, my guide in exploring Byzantine and Ottoman life in Istanbul for the next two days. I was surprised that the main spots were just a walking distance from my hotel. I regretted not exploring the previous night. We walked as she started talking about places we will see that day.
The Blue Mosque inside and out.
Sultahnamet Square and the Blue Mosque. Our first stop is the Sultahnamet square, where the old hippodrome, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia are all located. We wandered and entered the Blue Mosque first as it closes at noon during prayer service specially on Friday.
The one and only time I was in a mosque was when Bob and I made a trip to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia many years ago. I have no recollection of what it looked inside as there was no photos allowed within the premise. All I remembered was it’s beautiful- but nothing compare to this mosque. The Blue Mosque is huge! with so many people- both locals (some were praying) and tourists that were admiring. I don’t even know how to begin describing it. The outside was nothing grand; just typical (I’m sure expensive) marbles from its wall to the steepest minarets. It was in the inside that I was wowed. The mosque is built so intricately. Multiple domes, large pillars, the giant chandeliers- all are impressive. But the tile works were the most I was so bedazzled. I learned that the entire interior is made of more than 21,000 Iznic ceramics (an Anatolian pottery known for loose and flowing style) with different shades of blue, green, cobalt, and turquoise- thus the nickname Blue Mosque. Zekiye let me wandered and immersed myself to this beauty for a few. Then we exited the mosque and headed to the square.
Sultahnamet Square at dark.
Top- the relics of christianity inside Hagia Sofia;
Bottom: Inside the mosque; Hagia Sofia at dawn;
Sultanahmet Square. The old Hippodrome of Constantinople, the social center during the Byzantine era. At present time, the only remaining ruins were the serpent column, Obelisk of Thutmose III, and the Walled Obelisk. There were so much people (tourists and locals) on the day time so I took an effort to come out at 5AM to get a good shot of this area. I was surprised how quiet it was, the exact opposite of what it was during the day.
Hagia Sophia. The next significant infrastructure Zekiye and I went to was the Hagia Sofia; another important landmark in the Byzantine period. Originally built as an Orthodox Church (the main church of the empire in Constantinople), it is now used as a mosque since the Ottoman ruled the Turks. Like the Blue Mosque, this one also has massive dome and of elaborate tile works; but different hues than the other mosque. Inside you’ll see contrasting relics; while this serves as mosque, you’ll still find elements of Christianity on its walls. In Turkish history, I learned that the Ottomans chose to keep its structural integrity and essentially just adding islamic features. It took me sometime to just take everything in. I have been to many old churches in Europe, and even in the Philippines, but not inside grand mosques like the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia. This was truly a feast to my senses; both are equally impressive.
inside the Basilica Cistern
Basilica Cistern. The next place we went to was the Basilica Cistern. A large water reservoir built in the 6th century under a large public square. In the ancient time, this cistern provided water filtration in the great palace of Constantinople. At present time, the cistern is kept with little water for public access- like tour that I just did.😉 Wandering around inside the cistern made me wonder how different ancient times have been and how our water system significantly improved. At the innermost corner of the cistern, there is a post turned upside down; I have little knowledge about this historic site, but I thought that was unique.
It was past twelve when we got out of the cistern, I wasn’t hungry yet since I ate a quiet breakfast; but Zekiye was eager to show me an authentic Turkish dishes, so we went to one of her go to in Istanbul. I had some traditional Turkish Doner (similar to Beef Pita) and a tea. When we’re done we went to or final and last destination of the day.
wandering inside Topkapi Palace
Topkapı Palace. In the 1400s, during the ruling of the Ottoman in Turkey, the construction of this palace was initiated by the the order of Sultan Mehmed. Topkapi Palace had been the residence of the sultans and their families. At the end of the Ottoman Empire in 1923, the government made the palace a museum.
I have been to many castles and palaces in almost every trip I went in Europe the commonalities they have are the Christian (religion) influences you see in all of them. Topkapi is different; this is the first time I entered a royal residence that christianity is not the core entity of the place. It is the muslim influence that are evident everywhere. The structure of the buildings, the murals on the walls, the accessories… all far contrast from the Western castles I have been. Topkapi is housed to everything- the artifacts on display are evidence of the wealth this country enjoyed back in the days. There are so many stories that they tell. I enjoyed my solo tour of the building. I feasted my eyes with the smorgasbord of greatness in front of me. When I was done, I met with Zekiye outside where she waited.
feeding the seagulls on the rooftop of Seven Hills hotel in Istanbul.
Just when I thought that our day was over, Zekiye brought me to Seven Hills, a famous hotel where its rooftop gives you a view of Istanbul’s edifice. The best part was feeding the seagulls with bread on my palm😉. Once the fun is over, Zekiye helped me navigate my way back to the hotel.
Day 2 in Istanbul. I must have been adjusting to the time once again as I was up the wee hours. I decided I will take photos of the Sultahnamet while it’s dark, with (almost) no people around so I went out with all my gadgets. When I thought it will be dangerous to be in the busiest plaza of Istanbul, it was actually the other way around. With high security visibility, I felt the safest. For a while I was lost in my own world; what a difference it makes to shoot photos of the same place with nobody around. I was having a great time. When light started to kick in and prayer goers were slowly coming, I decided to head back to my hotel and have my Turkish breakfast and to get ready for my Day Two adventure of Istanbul.
Around the same time that Zekiye picked me up and we took the public tram to the pier for our boat tour.
Bosphorus Strait. The best view of Istanbul is from a boat. We cruised the Bosphorus Strait for more than 2 hours with the sights of both the shores of Istanbul's European and Asian sides. Seeing the city by boat offers an entirely different perspective; the city is so big! Now it made sense why it has played such an important geographic role for centuries in this part of the world.
the view of Istanbul from the boat at Bosphorus Strait
sceneries on the boat ride at Bosphorus Strait
The breeze and the many views of beautiful Istanbul made me not mind of time. We had a perfect time on the boat. After a couple of hours the boat docked to where we departed where the port had gotten busier. When we got off, Zekiye and I made our way to the Spice Bazaar.
must finds at the Spice Bazaar and Grand Bazaar.
Spice and Grand Bazaars. I have never been to a big one like this before, perhaps the closest I’ve been was in my trip in Malacca many years ago. It was great to see colorful spices sold outside the market and smell all the different aromas lingering the air. I wish I could buy all of them, but the one I got was the high grade saffron for some of my cooking.
Not far from the Spice Bazaar was the Grand Bazaar. This is one of the world's largest and oldest covered markets you’ll find across the world. There is about 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops, which offer everything you could ever want in a bazaar. Zekiye told me that this hasn’t been the best of the bazaar since it struggled during the pandemic. Just to give everyone a perspective of what’s inside, the Grand Bazaar has variety of stores- from a high end brands of leather bags to the most antiquated mementos and everything in between- you can find it here. It was the time of prayer when we got to the place so some stores are close as the owners were praying outside. Such an interesting sight to see.
After exploring a few more streets of stores and purchasing some authentic Turkish deli, Zekiye and I parted ways. This is the end of our two day tour of Istanbul.
Before heading to my hotel, I wandered the streets one more time. Istanbul is such a charming city. Different from old European cities I have been, the combination of both old and new structures is like a time travel adventure.