After three weeks in the Philippines doing my own trip and seeing family in October last year, I went to Turkey for my solo travel.
Turkey seemed closer to Manila, atleast that’s what I thought, but it wasn’t. My Manila to Keyseri via Istanbul flight is more than 15hrs. I had a lay over of 3hrs in Istanbul before Keyseri. While the flight was smooth, It made me really tired. Though Turkey is considered the gateway to Europe, it gives me the middle east vibe; and this was my first time in a middle eastern country.
First sunset at Cappadocian Valley of Uchisar.
First Stop Cappadocia. When I arrived in Keyseri, it was damp as it just rained. It was over an hour drive to Uchisar, where I have my three day stay reservation in Hotel Kale Konak in Cappadocia. The ride was smooth; I have a mini bus limo for myself that made me feel a bit of a royalty🤣. As we drove, i noticed that Keyseri’s landscape is somehow unique- mostly bare land and hills and seems dry- similar to the outskirts of Nevada. The houses or communities are clustered and can be seen in one area then followed by bare lands and hills again.
Top L-R: Uchisar Castle outside my hotel; experiencing Testi Kebab for the first time.
Bottom: The view of Hotel Kale Konak overlooking Pigeon valley.
By the time I got the hotel the rain had stopped and the sky was clear. It was a bit chilly, on the mid 50s for the temperature, and yet- it was a beautiful day in the mountain. I was able to get to check in my hotel right away then got my self refreshed and rested for a bit before I explored the town. My hotel is right across the Uchisar Castle that overlooks Cappadocian valley. It was such a great location with the beautiful view of the Pigeon valleys. I was speechless as I feasted my eyes to this natural beauty. I walked around its streets; enjoyed the local market for a bit and then decided to eat late lunch at a local restaurant. I ordered a Testi Kebob- it s a Turkish dish that involves cooking a kebab in a sealed claypot- this is their specialty here in Cappadocia region.
I roamed around after lunch then sleepiness haunted me so I went back to my room to take a nap. By the time I woke up it was almost sunset, I went to check if Uchisar Castle still open and when it was, I bought a ticket to explore it to witness the sunset. It was mild overcast, but it did give me a good show for the sunset.
Uchisar and Cappadocian Valleys. It was overcast and windy when I woke up on my second day. I was supposed to fly with my hot air balloon but it was already cancelled the previous day by the Civil Aviation Authority due to the weather forecast. I am glad they did cause I wanted my ultimate hot air ballon experience be memorable. In retrospect, I liked how they take hot air balloon rides here seriously. It made me feel safe.
An overlook of the Fairy Chimneys of the Uchisar Valley; straight out of a fairytale book.
Top L-R: complimentary breakfast at hotel Kale Konak; Irfan- my guide and his photography behind him.
Bottom L-R: The cat that followed me throughout my trek; the traditional Turkish teahouse in one of the fairy chimneys.
With such change, I started my day of sightseeing of Cappadocia. Irfan, my guide picked me up on time. First he drove and brought me briefly to see a bird’s eye view of Pigeon Valley. This is famous for numerous small pigeon houses carved into the soft volcanic rock cliffs. Next we explored was Uchisar. This beautiful town is known for its natural fortress. The main attraction was the Uchisar Castle- a giant natural volcanic rock formation which used as dwelling and defense for earlier invasions.
Then we drove around the other side of the castle. Irfan asked wether I want to trek the bottom of the valley, or just continue to drive. I chose the former. When we got off, we stood and looked over the “fairy chimney” formation. Such a beautiful landscape!. And off we went. It was a bit over cast and the weather was cool, so this was a good exercise for me. As we trail down, my eyes feasted on these magnificent view. It’s true what they say of this place, straight out of a fairytale book.
While we continued trekking, I noticed that a black and white cat was following us. This perhaps the third or fourth cat I have seen in less than 24hrs I have been in this country. It dawned on me an article I read about Turkey a while ago that they are fond of cats (and other animals). I asked Irfan about the truth on this and he said that most Turkish are very fond of cats because the prophet Mohammad loves cats. Good to know.
Goreme Open Air Museum and its Byzantine painting.
It was about half hour trekking down. With few stops to take photos and just admire these beauties. Irfan asked me if I wanted to get some Turkish tea before we proceed with our long ride. Hesitant, I agreed- as I didn’t know if this gesture is a custom I shouldn’t say no. We went inside of one of the remaining pigeon houses still lived by locals. There are very few of them that still occupied and this tea house is one of them he said; and those who still have it, pay an incredible amount of dues and taxes. The inside was cozy; truly traditional Turkish tea parlor. There were landscape photos hanged on the wall. The owner told me that Irfan took them. I learned that Irfan is a former photographer of Ministry of Tourism of Turkey. I was speechless and eventually told Irfan what an honor to have him as my guide.
Goreme Open Air Museum and Pasabag Monks Valley. After the pigeon houses and fairy chimneys at Uchisar we drove to Goreme Open Air Museum- another treasure of Cappadocia. This place showcases ancient Christian churches with well preserved Byzantine paintings. The most that struck me were the Apple, Dark and Buckle Churches becomes of their very detailed and well preserved frescoes. Unfortunately, it wasn’t permitted to take any photos of the frescoes; so I only have the one from the outside. I also learned from my guide that long before Turkey became a muslim country, Christianity predominates the country.
Pasabag Monks Valley
After Goreme, we went to Pasabag Monks Valley. This was our last stop for the day. Irfan must have been tired of the long walks, so he let me do this my own and he decided to wait for me at the entrance. As I walked to this vast land, I am again surrounded by the giant fairy chimneys (in all honesty, it looks more of a phallus😂). Each formations here are quite different from the previous we visited. When I saw an opportunity to trek a giant rock formation, I found my way on top of it to view the sun setting. I sat for a little bit and took photos of the scenery. After a while, I started going down and explored the rest of the place again. It must have been more than an hour, and people started to leave, so I did as well and met with Irfan to finally go back to the hotel.
When I get to my hotel, I still have an ample time exploring the town, so that’s what I did while finding a place to get dinner- Shish kebab 😉.
A typical habitation of a family at Kaymakli Underground City
Kaymakli Underground City and Ceramic Tradition in Avanos.
The second day of my official Cappadocia trip we went to the underground city. Irfan and Yunus was early as usual; so we left immediately after. Kaymakli Underground City is an elaborate maze of tunnels, caves and is the second widest of the underground cities (yes there’s plenty of them) in all Turkey; built by the early Christians to protect themselves from the religious persecution of Roman Soldiers. I was glad that we modified our trip itinerary from day one; we got here at an earlier time (which was already a bit crowded but not packed). The narrow passages were a bit challenging- they were dark and I was literally hunched at all times (except on the common area/rooms that you can appreciate when your guide tells you to stop) walking through them because the ceiling clearances were too low and the sharp edges could easily hurt my head. When we’re finally over, I saw busses after busses of tourists; glad we escaped that one. 😂
Top: The Carpet Bazaar I visited in Avanos. One hallway turned to showroom;
Bottom: A lady putting the final touch of the pottery; myself making one; a woman weaving a carpet.
Then we drove to Avanos to see ceramic making. I have been to many- in the Philippines (both Vigan and Banaue) in Costa Rica, Malaysia. They are all similar but different in some ways. Cappadocia ceramic making was also different. In all my experiences in pottery, I only get to watch how they do it; but not this time. It was just myself and the pottery maker in the work room so he asked me to try it myself, so I did! at first I was a bit anxious, but as you mold the clay, my anxiety turned to just enjoying the pottery itself. Such a great experience to do one. We also briefly stop to the nearby carpet place to see how carpets are made. I learned from this one that certain type of carpet (like silk) is more expensive (than wool) because of the amount of time, the materials, and the craftsmanship invested to make one. I also learned that this is a dying craft in Turkey, and the government is actually investing to young people to keep the tradition alive. Both are intricately hand made. This is a fist for me. ❤️
On both my way to Cappadocia and our trips, I asked Irfan if pumpkins are big crops in Turkey as I see them a lot. He said yes, it is made to some sort of native delicacies. Its surprising to see that these pumpkins are different to traditional orange pumpkins I see during fall in the US; they resemble more of a watermelon. On our ride to Caravansite, Both roads sides were farms of pumpkins. Irfan must have read my mind and we parked our car, both got off, looked and watched them while they harvests.
Top L-R: a local family harvesting pumpkins; a typical potato storage;
Bottom: the Three Beauties- the most photographed among fairy chimneys;
I wasn’t sure if the rest of my day was still part of the tour, but Irfan seemed eager to make me learn of Cappadocian ways and culture that he showed me more this road trip. Potato is one of the agricultural products the Anatolia Region (which includes Cappadocia) majorly produce; so he showed me the way its being stored in winter times. It’s like all the storage areas. we rent in the US only they are dug in the mountain. Something different. It was almost lunch, so we all headed to Ürgüp, and I ordered an authentic Turkish wrap for my lunch in a local restaurant and the Turkish tea of course.
Ürgüp was s our last destination for the day. Here lies one of the most photographed fairy chimneys in Cappadocia- The Three Beauties. They are are fairy chimneys that resemble of two adults and a child; which is thought to be symbolizing the family. Legend says that the families without children would come here and have children by going up and down the slope next to these fairy chimneys 7 times. True or not, there were so many people that I saw doing such.
When I was done, I met Irfan and Yunus where we parked and off they drop me off to my hotel. I rested for a bit, then headed out to see the town for one last time as tomorrow at noon, I will be leaving for Istanbul.
Cappadocia’s Royal Hot Air Balloon. My main goal visiting Cappadoccia is to ride the hot air balloon. This wasn’t a first for me; Bob and I have done it before in Phoenix. And while it was a great experience, the ultimate hot air balloon was here in Cappadocia because of the beautiful landscape you fly over. Atleast this is based on travel gurus.
This flight almost did not happen. Originally, I planned to ride the hotair balloon on a Monday- my second day, but weather was not cooperating so it has to be re scheduled. I was put on a wait list for two days. I saw them fly over Uchisar valley the day after mine was cancelled. I was just unlucky that I couldn’t make it that day as all tour were fully booked. But, the same night, I got a call that I will be on the fly list for Wednesday- the following day; the same day I leave for Istanbul.
the panoramic view of some of the hot air balloons flying over Cappadocia valley at sunrise- photographed by yours truly from another hotter balloon 😉
Top L-R: hot air balloon prepping for take off; the view of Uchisar Castle from my balloon;
Bottom: enjoying the smooth ride; a champagne toast after a successful flight.
And just when i thought that all was set come Wednesday morning, our take off was delayed because of the wind. First we waited til 0635AM for the announcement from Ministry of Aviation, as we gather all at the waiting area. Then the time came and another announcement that it was being delayed again til 0655AM. THe balloon company were kind enough to offer us early breakfast, so we had some while waiting for the time. Then 0655AM came and there wasn’t a word from the Ministry; at this time, the anxiety was high but we all kept waiting as someone whispered that at 0725AM the final announcement will be made. At this point I have little to no expectations- as my chance to fly got slimmer and slimmer. In my mind I was taking notes of the time- I have an airport pick up at 10 so anything later than 0730AM I will have to decide or cancel it. By 0715AM the tour operator walked into our waiting area smiling, I knew then that we are flying. Such a big sigh of relief. 🙂
It took us 10 mins to go where the balloons take off, then moments later we’re up along with all the balloon enthusiasts. It was surreal up there!
I have never seen so many hot air balloons, not even on my first time flying in Phoenix… they were mesmerizing. I felt I was in some kind of Disney movie. Then comes the backdraft of the fairy chimneys slowly brightens by the golden rays of the sun- stunning! I now understand why Cappadocia is a must for hot air balloon ride. I was speechless an I couldn’t keep myself from looking around. Everywhere was just jaw-dropping. An hour went by quick. The next I know we were descending and landed to someone else’s backyard. That one too was smooth- very different from the landing I remembered in Phoenix- bumpy a few times and scary to be honest. We ended the trip with a champagne toast.
Another bucket list checked. Until we meet again Kapadokya.
Obligatory photo of a Kapadokya sign.